Noting that my breasts provide a source of comfort for my partner, I decided to do it myself and make him a personalized version of classic erotic novelties The shape of the decompression toy, imitating a toy of my own. Maybe now he will leave me alone so I can finish the important things. This is the second part of the two films. Parts series for making silicone models from human body parts. The first part of the series is to replicate the body parts with plaster. You will need:- Dragon skin platinum silicone rubber 1 pint-2 pints of PMC- 744 polyurethane rubber ( Although considering that this has caused extreme allergic reactions in both me and my assistant, I would recommend using rebound 25 silicone rubber if possible)-Smooth- General mold release- Easy release 800- Shellac or paint-2 two- Pint bowl type 2 cheap paint brushes 2 wooden mixing sticks- Plaster model of breast White painter\'s suit A pair of thick rubber gloves A pair of nitrile gloves (non-latex)- Several thick garbage bags used to handle chemicals An empty 2 gallon water containera razor blade-a hot glue gun- Tape * a well A nice windy place in a ventilated area or outdoors * I\'m a bit backwards ( A frame was built around it and then coated) But before you find a way to store the plaster model, you should seal it with shellac or paint. Apply some quick thin coats until they are fully covered. It\'s better to use color stuff so you can see if you \'ve painted the whole thing. After the sealing material is dried, spray the inside of the rig with a general mold release agent. Gently apply the release agent around with a brush and dry for 30 minutes. In order to make an inverted mold around the breast, you need to build a frame around the breast and you can pour the rubber in. The best thing we found was an empty 2 gallon water container to store the plaster model of my breast. When you find the right container or shell for your model, dig a hole in the base where the plaster breast fits comfortably and glue it in place from the outside with hot glue. ( To make sure that the surface area of my mold is not much larger than the surface area of the plaster breast, I added an extra wall to the inside of the container. While not necessary, I would suggest, frankly, that it depends on the size of the model. ) It is very sure that the glue is filled with all possible cracks that may leak from polyurethane rubber. ( For safety, you can also wrap around the outside of the rig with tape. )The PMC- 744 polyurethane rubber is mixed in a ratio of 2:1. In other words, the number of Part B is twice that of Part. Please use all two containers for safety. This will make it unnecessary for you to actually measure things and calculate the correct number of each part ( Because the less time you spend dealing with and measuring these chemicals, the better your life will be). What I did was pour Part B into the container and mix it thoroughly. Then I poured part and mixed the two together completely. I continued to stir for a few minutes but it didn\'t take too long from the panlife on PMC- 744 takes only 15 minutes. Slowly pour the rubber into the mold at the lowest possible point and let it fill up from the bottom. Continue until the rubber is at least 1 inch higher than the plaster mold. Once done, give the whole rig several good taps to the ground, forcing any surface bubbles up. Place the mold outside where it is dry without wind (or in a well-Ventilation area) Let it sit for about 24 hours. After having it sit for a night, remove the polyurethane rubber mold from the rig. Cut off any extra rubber from the moldmaking process. After demoulding and cleaning the breast mold, it is better to bake the mold at 150 degrees in the toaster oven for 4 hours. This will help to improve the life and durability of the mold. Be sure not to use the toaster oven you intend to use again for cooking. Do it outside or in a very good placeVentilation area. Before pouring the silicone into the mold, you need to apply the mold release. Pour the dragon skin silicone into the best mold release of PMC- 744 polyurethane rubber is 800 easy to release. Apply a thin coat, wait a few minutes, and wipe the excess clean. Wait a few more minutes, apply a second coat and then, in a few more minutes, you should be ready to start with silicone. Longskin silicone is mixed in a ratio of 50/50 by weight or volume. This makes it easy to use. Unless the breasts you are using are very large, you may not need to use all of them. Guess how much volume the breast will occupy and then add that number a little. Once you know the volume you are working on, divide this number into two halves to determine how many parts A and B you need. In other words, it is calculated that the volume of the entire A and B parts will be half of this quantity. Pour out Part A and mix it fully. Next, fully mix Part B before pouring. Once mixed, pour Part B into the same amount as part. At least 3-mix Parts A and B thoroughly5 minutes. Pour your silicone into the rubber mold so that it will first fill in the lowest possible point and make sure the rubber rises as evenly as possible from the bottom --- It\'s like pouring the cake batter into the pan. Continue until the mold is filled evenly. Don\'t worry if it\'s a bit off-track, as it can be trimmed later. Give your mold a few good balls with solid things ( Like a brush or screwdriver) Force the bubble up to prevent the bubble from destroying the surface. Let it sit in the well Ventilated for 24 hours, completely hardened. This is an important moment! Remove silicone breast from mold. Once done, you\'ll want to trim all the extra silicone on the edge of your breast with a pair of scissors.